To Sa Pa!

Well! What an amazing 18 hrs I've had!! We were picked  at 7.30 and taken to the station for the 8.35pm train to Lao Cai, which the northern border town with China.

We had booked out the four berth compartment. The journey began by going through the city on the single track railway and crossing the Red River, great night views of the city with lots of lights but not good for photography through a dirty train window. We settled down to sleep, Orlo changed his mind about sleeping on the "up" bed so up went GrannyLiz instead! Good job I had had plenty of practice 3 yrs ago ;). Sleeping was not easy even with earplugs , the train rattled and rolled for 9 hrs until we arrived at Lao Cai at 05.30 hrs. 

It was quite a scrummage  getting out of the station , but the 'meeter and greeter' was there with our name sign and showed us to a minibus, where we waited ........ Until the next train arrived at 

about 6.30. Moral: there is nothing gained by taking the earlier departure from Hanoi. It was pouring with rain when we arrived but faired up. 

So, eventually we set off driving up the hairpin bends for 1 hr, unfortunately they got the better of Orlo just before we arrived!!!

We were made very welcome at the Village Noshery, having breakfast before we went to the room to freshen up. Then it was out to explore the town a little bit which apparently has developed almost beyond recognition since Amanda was here in 2001. It is very much a trekking village and there are lots of local Hmong tribeswomen  trying to sell their wares, mainly embroidered bags, silver bracelets  and other handwork. Further up the street the women have got the traditional skirts , hats, purses etc all laid out.  

Skirt on display at the Village Noshery

We had some lunch in Baguette and Chocolat  which is a restaurant and rooms run by the Samaritan's Purse charity. Young men and women from disadvantaged families are trained on cooking, and service there and many go on to work in upmarket establishments.  

At 1.30pm I set off on a trek to Cat Cat village with a delightful young Red Hmong woman guide, her name was Ly May. I forgot to take the phone so there are no photos yet, I will download some later ........ Orlo was too tired so Amanda and he ducked out. 

I had a great afternoon, the walking was all downhill, rather a lot of steps at times, but we kept stopping to look at the view, the textiles, the water and milling system, the indigo dye being prepared, and eventually the river and waterfalls..

We sat in the shade and had a drink then watched a dance show by girls from the different tribes. While we were having our drink Ly May showed me the embroidery she was doing, all Hmong women carry their embroidery with them when they are out and about and they sit and stitch whenever the opportunity arises.  She explained the significance of the different designs, of which more in another blog !

We walked a relatively short way up from the village and then got a motorcycle taxi!!! One for me and one for her ! I wish I had a video of ride back up the lane from almost the valley bottom, quite an adventure!!!!

So now I am back, the others are fast asleep so I am enjoying a mug of Earl Grey tea and writing this ! It is still very warm  and very humid here and  I am dripping!!!

Until next time ......